Laurent Manrique of Aqua is an international playboy with extra flair when it comes to inventive French/Asian cuisine. Each dish arrives spectacularly dressed with white gold cufflinks and Manolo Blahnik slingbacks. One leaves an Aqua dining experienced refreshed, inspired, and enchanted.
Gary Danko however, is your quiet unassuming uncle who once made a mini art deco table/chair out of a soda bottle cap and wire. The ambiance of his restaurant recalls the comfortable feeling of watching Little House on the Prairie DVDs--you're awashed with a feeling of indulging yourself with a tried and true classic, unpretentious, and wholesome. Sitting in the mirrored dining room, images of the homes of nearby patrons flashed into my mind: their dark wooden staircases, beds with 2000 thread-count sheets, with lighting and decor comparable to the dining room itself.
The service was impeccable as one would expect from a restaurant listed as a Relais au Chateaux establishment. The feeling was very adult Disneyland--from the clean cut staff with their polished and rehearsed repartee, and as many smiles that one encounters at the floating market in Thailand. Or in Thailand in general. The atmosphere is festive--about 6 people were celebrating birthdays in our area of the dining room, including yours truly. I half-expected a banner to float along the ceiling "Welcome to the Happiest Dining Room on Earth!"
Typical dialogue:
Customer: "I'd like to try four courses"
Note:
Gary Danko allows patrons to select 3-5 courses. You can mix and match to allow for 1 appetizer and 3 main dishes, 3 appetizers and one dessert, etc.
GD waiter: Excellent!
Customer: "I'll go with the trio of créme brulée with cookies, blueberry French toast with maple syrup emulsion and salted almond ice cream, pineapple upside down milk cake with walnut streusel and burnt caramel ice cream, and baked chocolate soufflé with two sauces. And I'd like them all at the same time. And also, the a.c. is quite strong in this corner..."
GD waiter: Absolutely! Most excellent choices, just brilliant! I'll bring over a pashmina shawl to drape over your shoulders. (said in a rapturous yet controlled tizzy)
Before I list the dishes we enjoyed, I'd like to state that Mr. Danko has the best pastry chef in town, if not North America.
Cappy:
Seared Ahi Tuna with Avocado, Nori, Enoki Mushrooms and Lemon Soy
Roast Maine Lobster with Abalone Mushrooms, Edamame Beans
Pan Seared Sea Scallops with Spaghetti Squash, Cipollini Onions, Sour Cherries and Almonds
Trio of Créme Brulée with Cookies
Me: (Winter Tasting Menu)
Glazed Oysters with Osetra Caviar, Salsify and Lettuce Cream
Horseradish Crusted Salmon Medallion with Dilled Cucumbers
Guinea Hen Breast and Confit Leg with Cornbread Pudding, Brussels Sprouts and Quince
A Selection of Farmhouse and Artisanal Cheeses Presented Tableside
Baked Chocolate Soufflé with Two Sauces
It was a phenomenal experience. We left with hearty greetings, a morning muffin (pineapple upside down cake), and a signed copy of the menu.
Hats off to Cappy for this wonderful birthday dinner!
Sunday, March 04, 2007
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