Friday, August 26, 2005

Nothing but Blue Skies


My first glimpse of blue skies here in Beijing. Unfortunately, i had to descend to the B2 level to catch it. It's a bit like discovering Diagon Alley, a whole underground world markedly different from the regular world where people are fashionable and giddy--as opposed to the purposeful and determined pedestrians at ground level.

i got lost in faux daytime subterranean strip last night, as shown above. This underworld sits below my hotel. It's a maze of shops, restaurants, singing clubs, a small cinema, backdoor clubs, and an athletic club/swimming pool complex. Supposedly there is mini golf somewhere too, but i've not found it. There are no clocks, and no windows, unless you count the painted facades that scale the walls. It's kind of a mix between Universal Studio's City Walk, the Venetian Las Vegas, Lotte World in Seoul sans the rides, and any American suburban mall.

Women in dark pink prom dresses line the entrances of singing clubs, looking statuesque and bored. i passed by a small cosmetic shop, and the ultra hip woman inside sat on a chair near the counter, having a very pleasant nap. She was probably "resting her eyes," as my grandmother used to say. Men deep in thought pace back and forth in their golf attire shops. Couples walk hand-in-hand, girls huddle around tables hitting buttons on their cell phones, and old men sit on benches and smile out at nothing in particular.

i keep waiting to hear the ding-ding-ding-ding of slot machines. Rather than the wafting smells of deep fried onion rings, fries, and cheese steak sandwiches, you can smell ginger, garlic, cigarette smoke, steaming hot pot dishes, steamy ramen, and chlorine from the sculptured waterfalls. In the very faint background above the buzz of conversation and clanging of dinnerware, i could distinctly hear Air Supply's "Lost in Love."

People are refreshingly pleasant and warm. A shocking difference to the downcast looks and dismissive feel from 10 years ago. i ventured to the supermarket complex, "Wonderful." There was one whole aisle dedicated to various forms of Colgate toothpaste. And another full of international beers.

And lastly--i'm a total sucker for samples, not tasting them, but actually buying them. i feel guilty for the little "dine and dash" aspect of it, so i often end up purchasing whatever i've tried. As i left the check out counter, a pleasant young woman offered a taste of tea in little dixie cups. It was perfect timing, my throat was a little gravelly from the air in sunny city. The tea was warm and fragrant. The woman realised that i don't speak Chinese, and became giddy at the prospect of practicing her English. We laughed as i tried to figure out the bills of varying sizes in my wallet. After very little persuasion, i bought a tin of the tea, and also walked away, catching and carrying some of that giddy Beijing vibe with me.

No comments: