Waipi'o

For those of you unfamiliar with Waipi'o Valley on the Big Island of Hawai'i, it was the home of to the kings of old Hawai'i. Most of the taro that is cultivated for poi is grown in the lush valley. It takes about 2 hours to drive there from Hilo, via the small town of Honoka'a.

For all the summers i spent on the Big Island, i had never been near Waipi'o Valley. Unbelievable right? It's kind of like local people here in the Bay Area who've never been to Alcatraz. Or not. You know what i mean.

Over the holiday, we spent an entire day on horses from the Waipi'o Ridge Stables. It was my surprise treat for Cappy on her birthday. i opted for the 5-6 hour "Hidden Waterfall" ride. i know what you're thinking--5-6 hours can be dire for those unaccustomed to long hours in a leather saddle. And would Cappy thank me or hate me for such a surprise? Thankfully, we weren't on horseback for the entire time. And though we were a bit sore, it was totally worth it.

The brochure promised a wonderful "...journey along the rim of Waipi'o Valley to the top of Hi'ilawe, one of Hawaii's highest and most beautiful waterfalls." The extra special Hidden Waterfall ride promised even more wonderment: "As we ride deeper and deeper into the rainforest we encounter a series of smaller, beautiful waterfalls and secret pools. Soon it's time to tie up your horse and hike down to a very private waterfall spilling into a pristine ginger lined pool."

Cappy was assigned to the shortest horse of the bunch, Kaleo. She later described this horse as an "ornery donkey" because he failed to respond to her constant tugs on his rein. He didn't give up a single opportunity to graze on the green grass, ferns, and anything else in his path. It was basically a constant "drive through" for Kaleo.

My horse was called Roddo. He was a 20-year old horse derived from the Spanish stock of horses that first occupied Hawai'i. He was thankfully not as voracious as Kaleo. And for some reason, he decided that he would listen to me. My only complaint was that he loved to trot spontaneously which was brilliant, though painful.

The Hidden Waterfall was exactly that. We rode up the mountain and our horses waded through shallow rivers to get to it. You didn't have to dip a toe into the water to know the water was freezing. Still, there was no way we were killing ourselves for 2 hours to not swim in the "pristine ginger lined pool." Not to sound cheesy, but it was that. Though the water was arctic, it was completely refreshing. We had a picnic lunch of sub sandwiches from Blane's Drive Inn in nearby Honoka'a.

After a brief dip into the aforementioned arctic waters, we got dressed and got back on the saddle, literally. The prospect of another 2 hours back to the stables seemed fun, yet painful to my increasingly strained back.

It's funny. The whole experience seemed so cheesy and unreal, both from the brochure and the actual experience. In the moment however,it felt so normal--as if we ride through tropical forests on horseback every morning. It's odd how things feel nearly ordinary in the moment, yet totally glossy afterwards. I can easily recall the sound of the breeze weaving through the eucalyptus trees, the sound of horse hooves trudging over rocks, and the silence except for the steady footsteps of 10 horses in single file through the jungle.